First of all, when I refer to "Ipe", I am basically refering to Ipe, Iron Wood, Pau Lope, Brazilian Redwood, Cambera, Mahogany, etc. etc. - all the new hard wood decking that's currently on the scene. I'll just use "Ipe" - to mean a hard tough dense decking of whatever specie you may be using.
Decisions
Should I use solid 4x4 Ipe posts or 4x4 treated posts wrapped in Ipe?
Do I notch the posts to the outside edge of the deck, or should I box the posts into the framing?
Will my railing run in between the posts so I can have the look of posts with postcaps - or should my railing run on top of the posts so I don't have the postcap look?
There are 2 basic methods to running your hand rails:
1) Between the posts.
2) Over the posts.
Between the posts railing - Two basic post types:
1) Use 4x4 treated posts and wrap them with IPE.
2) Use solid 4x4 IPE posts.
Over the posts railings - Two basic post types:
1) Use 4x4 treated posts and wrap them with IPE
2) Use solid 4x4 IPE posts.
Railing Between the Posts |
Over the Post Railings |
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Railing Between the Posts
Once we discovered that you can successfully shoot Ipe with a pnuematic finish nailer, it became quite clear that the easiest installation for IPE decks and railings is to use Pl-Premium adhesive and stainless steel finish nails from a pnuematic nailer. This method drastically reduces the installation time to the point that it more then pays for you to go out and buy a pnuematic nailer to do the job.
Some of the adhesives out on the market today stick just about anything to anything and last a lifetime. We like the Pl-Premium adhesive. On your deck, you can run out the adhesive for a few boards, then postion the boards and tack them in place with the finish nails, and keep on moving.
Use 16 guage stainless finish nails and shoot at a slight angle. Use enough air power or set your tip for "deep" recess so the nails hide themselves.
Shown below are 2 methods for installing the posts.
The first method - A - is when the decking is completely installed already, and now it's more advantageous to notch the posts to the outside.
The secound method - B - I call it the "boxed in post" is the strongest. This is used directly after the deck framing has been completed and before any decking goes down. Here, you bolt the posts inbetween the framing. You box it in completely with framing and through bolt in both directions. Construction adhesive always helps in any post method. You can also just screw and glue your boxed in posts using some heavy gauged long lasting screws and exterior construction adhesive - or some hot dipped galvanized lag bolts and adhesive.
Both "notched" and "boxed in" methods can be 4x4 treated posts wrapped in 1x4 and 1x6 Ipe. This is the easiest, least expensive way. Both A & B methods can also be done in solid 4x4 Ipe posts but is much more difficult then working with treated posts that are just wrapped in Ipe. If you have ever tried to notch or bolt a solid Ipe post, you'll know what I mean.
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A - Notched B - Boxed In |
Wrapping a Post with Ipe instead of using solid Ipe posts.
Top view of wrapped post assembly method
Calculate distance between posts including 1x4s on the outside ends of rail components.
Assemble the rail components into a section.
Attach 1x4s to each end of rail section and drop into place.
Nail through 1x4 into treated post.
Put 1x6 on the faces of the post.
Finished Assembled Railing using Ipe wrapped Treated Posts and 7" Caps
We decided to make the distance from the deck top to the bottom of the bottom rail - and the distance between the top of the top rail to the top of the post height the same at 3-1/2". These are arbitrary distances. In most areas, there should be no greater then 4" max. space between ballusters and under the rail for building code reasons.
The height of the rail from the top of the deck is 36" for lower level decks and 42" for 2nd story decks. Please verify with your building department as they may be different in your area.
The bottom of the 7" Post Caps have a 3-1/2" block mounted. This block goes inside the Ipe wrapping. No fastening is necessary. If you decide not to fasten to the block, you could make little storage spaces perhaps to hold wiring for future lighting if you want.
Using Railings Over the Posts
Over the post railings is just a different look. The railing is a continuos rail sitting on top of the posts. All posts come up to the exact same height, and the railing sits on top all the way around. No post caps can be used because there are no extending posts. This method makes it easier to miter and go around angles because you can simply miter the rail over the posts.
With this method, usually you use a solid 4x4 post either notched or boxed in to the framing, and then run 6" wide railing so that it extends beyond the 3.5" x 3.5" post . You could run regular 2x4 (3.5") railing that isn't shaped, but the 2x6 shaped railing is a much more elegant look and will definately cover the post.
If you use the easier "wrapped" posts, (3.5" + 3/4" + 3/4" = 5") you would have to make sure the so called 6" railing will actually cover the 5" at the bottom side of the rail. Most over the top 6" railing is made to accomodate solid 4x4 posts.
Solving Post wrapping problems before they start
Pressure treated posts are not normally kiln dried, therefore, the correct sizing for them is 3-9/16" square rather than 3-1/2" ( a little bit bigger than 3-1/2"). However, when you are dealing with different manufacturers, and different trees being juiced up in a treatment tank, it's not uncommon to have different treated post sizes. It's not uncommon to have a post measure 3-5/8" or even a tad more in spots. Instead of 3-9/16" like the treated post, your Ipe 1x4 may measure smaller like 3-1/2" or often even less then that. If the 1x4 Ipe is not as wide as the 4x4 treated post, you may see some gaps when putting on the 1x6 and 1x4 wrapping. Often the gaps are not really that objectionable, but they could be. Additionally, the pressure treated posts are never dead on straight and they may have some bumps or raised spots to make it worse.
Here are some solutions to wrapping problems.
• Find the smallest width of your 1x4 Ipe - then plain down the 4x4 treated posts to just under this size before installing. Plane to at least 1/8" less.
• Instead of buying 1x4's and 1x6's for the wrapping, buy all 1x6's and rip half of the 1x6's to make sure it covers the width of your worst case post. Use the cut off pieces as trim somewhere.
• Look at the way the 1x6 cups. Usually it's cupped ever so slightly in one direction. When nailing on the 1x6's keep the high side out. This will let you reach back to the 1x4 a little better.
• If the Ipe is sized right - ie: wider than the widest part of the treated post, then all nailing can be done on the face of the board directly into the treated post. However there will probably be times when you want to nail through the 1x6 into the edge of the 1x4's to tighten the seam. It's very important to take your time when nailing through the 1x6's into the 3/4" edges of the 1x4's. If anything, you may want to angle the nail ever so slightly towards the center (towards the inside) this way if the nail hits some tough grain and wants to turn, chances are it will turn inside rather than poking itself outside. Remember they don't call this stuff "Iron Wood" for nothing. It's real tough removing nails. You are usually better off cutting off the nail as close to the wood as possible then hammering it in the rest of the way. You could also cut it close - hammer it closer then sand it flush to the wood with a sander.
Some folks have no problems with an 1/8" gap in the post wrapping - and if so, then you can go ahead and buy 1x4 and 1x6 and wrap the posts and so big deal if there's a little gappage - it still basically covers the treated post.
Then there are those who just won't tolerate the gaps - it's not right - shouldn't be there - how much more will it cost me to do it right?
For the first group of people, you're on your own, no problems, have fun and enjoy. For the 2nd group of people, you can do it on the job, or I offer my shop services.
• Tell me what size floor joists you are using - 2x6's - 2x8's - 2x10's - 2x12's
• Tell me what size decking you are using 1x4 or 1x6 (3/4" thick) - or 5/4x4 or 5/4x6 (1" thick) -
• Tell me which post style you will be using - notched or boxed in, see above.
Then I will be able to take care of all your post problems. First I bring all the materials to my shop. I sand and clean stain all components. I use all 1x6 stock and rip half of it about 3/16" wider then the widest point of the treated post so when the box is completed there will be no gaps. Then I precision cut the wrapping to the height and fasten it to the treated posts leaving the treated post hang out on the bottom enough to fit your joist size so all you or your contractor has to do place them and bolt them. The wrap will be aligned along the bottom and along the top. The 1x4 on the railing sides will just be pressure fit in place so they can be detached and used to attach the railings, the 1x6's will be glued and nailed to the treated posts. I'll leave the treated posts shorter then the wrap so that the pocket block post caps can be used. Labor for all the above is $50 per post regular, $65 per post notched. Again, if you are not local, then the crating and the freight might bite a bit, but if you already decided to purchase my railings, then you should probably opt for the posts to be done as well since the additional shipping crate height and weight won't mean that much more. If your posts are already in, then I could bundle up the sanded, cleaned, stained ripped and precision cut wrap materials for the number of posts that you have. Talk to me.
Setting Up a Table and Template for Railing Assembly
This template below will allow you to work like a gentleman. Cut a piece of 1 x scrap anything to the dimensions below. Make 3 pieces. You can also purchase a set of 3 templates from me for about $15.
Next - set up a table or work horses with 3/4" plywood 4'x8' like below.
The jig allows you to fasten the ballusters to the drip cap and subrail for either solid post use or wrapped post use.
Normally the rails get attached to the 4" wrap side - and the 6" wrap side faces the inside of the deck.
However when you make a turn on a corner post - your rail will have to attach to both a 4" side and a 6" side.
The dimensions for the jig above will center the rail system to a 5-1/2" face.
By putting in a 7/8" filler or shim - you can center the rails on a 3-3/4" face. See below.
Remember we discussed above that in order to have tight seems on the wrapping, you have to use 1x6 all the way. Half will remain as 1x6 (5-1/2") - and the other pieces will be ripped to 3-3/4" in order to fully cover the 4x4 treated posts.
Your 3/4" plywood measures 96" long.
Use straight 2x4's for your stops. Make the lengths of the 2x4 stops about 90" long so it leaves like 3" of room on both ends for you to stand up the wrap on the edge and fasten through into the rails. Make sure you start the 2x4's equal distance from the edge of the plywood. The distance between the 2x4 stops will be the same as the height of your wrap material. You can slide position your templates anywhere within the stops in order to support whatever length railing you are assembling.
Birdseye View of the assembly table.
Got the picture?
With the pnuematic nailer, you can shoot through the backside of the wrap into the meat of the hand rail and footrail - then drop entire section including the wrap in-between your posts. Now you can shoot through the face of the wrap into the treated posts. If you ever have to remove the rail, you have to remove the 1x6 face wraps and sawszall down through the stainless steel finish nails.
Any questions please call.